| This is a How-To for painting a paper mache prop to look like stone, but I
also detail the techniques I used to build paper mache props that looks like
skulls are pushing out. The painting details follow the mache
construction. These techniques were first used when I made a tombstone
for the HauntForum tombstone contest. The resulting tombstone, and
inspiration to build this how-to, is pictured to the right.
|
 |
|
To start with, I build some paper mache skulls, using tinfoil coated with paper mache (see link), but I don't bother with the duct tape. The mache recipe I use is courtesy of Vlad over at HauntForum.com; 1 cup water, 2 teaspoons salt, 3 tablespoons of flour, mix well. Heat slowly until it starts to thicken, stirring occasionally. I'm sure you could use whatever recipe you like. I make just the front half (the face). When finished the skulls are mounted to whatever, in this how-to a simple oval cut from cardboard. I have included a picture of the tombstone I made that used 10 skulls. |
 |
| I have come up with a couple of basic methods for getting the look of the
skull pushing out of the stone. One way is to stretch masking tape
strips between parts of the skull and the backing. Then start layering
the paper mache. I used newspaper torn into strips about 2" by 5".
I find it is easy to make smooth layers with the newspaper between the
skull, the tape and the backing. This may also work with paper towels
or other materials, but I have not tried them. I usually do 3 layers
of newspaper.
|
 |
| Another method is to cover the skull with cheese clothe, using tacks to hold the cheesecloth against the skull. This will define the basic shape of the skull face, but be forewarned that the cheesecloth will stretch a little when you paint it with mache mix, when that happens simply adjust the tacks. Next, paint the cheesecloth with mache mix, and when that is dry coat with 1 layer of mache. This results in a smooth transition from skull to backing, so I then use a few strips of masking tape where I want it to look like it is really stretching the stone. Complete with 2 more layers of mache. This is the basic method I used on the tombstone, the cheesecloth between all those skulls gave a really good effect (picture to the right). |
 |
 |
|
| Next, I lightly sand the mache with 150 grit sandpaper, just enough to knock down the ridges and wrinkles and paper seams some. Be careful not to sand too much! Then I paint with a coat of flat black latex house paint. This makes it easy to see paper seams and other imperfections. Next, I use my fingers to smooth on spackle. I try to get the paper seams and the wrinkles, but I don't make it perfectly smooth. I try to imagine what imperfections would look good in the stone, and leave those. After the spackle is dry, I sand again, brush the dust off and paint again with the flat black. The pictures to the right are in order, you should be able to see the difference the spackle makes, and the imperfections remaining after this step. The final step is 2 coats of polyurethane front, back, everywhere. Where I come from the humidity will make mache soft if you skimp on this last step. |
 |
| These are the same steps, but for the skull that used the cheesecloth. |
 |
| Now its time to paint! 95% of your labor is done now, these last steps
go really fast. This finishing technique is loosely based on the one
here.
First I tear a piece out of a regular sponge, about an inch, inch and a
half. Then I use scissors to trim the edges so there are no sharp
edges anywhere on the sponge. The technique from here on out is like
dry brushing, but with a sponge instead. Make sure you have some paper
towels handy, if you mess up it is easy to wipe the paint off the
polyurethane. Dip one of the flat sides of the sponge in the paint,
then pat it off on some cardboard.
|
|
 |
|
| Start applying by lightly touching the sponge onto the prop. You should end up with very light impressions of the sponge as seen in the first picture on the right. As the less paint comes off the sponge, go back over the same area, starting to press the sponge a little harder onto the prop (2nd picture). When the sponge is dry enough that you are actually compressing the sponge against the prop, then use a rapid motion to press the sponge against the prop pull it up, move the sponge just a little (1/8") and repeat, as fast as you can, going over the area several times. The motion reminds me of a sewing machine. As you do this, you will see the paint start to smooth in, looking less like sponge impressions and more like stone. If the paint is completely covering the area, you still have to much paint in the sponge and need to lighten how hard you are pressing. I suggest you try this on some scrape, once you get the hang of it it is easy. |
 |
| I like to hit the ridges and high points first when I have just dipped the sponge in the paint and dried it on the cardboard. As the sponge dries, get the sides of the ridges, then finally pushing it into crack when barely any paint is coming off the sponge. Watch how the paint is going onto the prop and adjust how hard you are pressing. |
 |
| To the right is a progress picture, and the 2 props with the full coat of gray sponged on. |
 |
| Next, repeat the technique with white. Concentrate on the high points, but go over everything with a very dry white sponge. You will know you are doing it right when you see the harsh edges from the gray start to fade and look more natural. |
 |
| Final step is to age it. I use burnt umber and water, a little of each mixed up (see first pic on right). To start with I will squeeze some out onto the prop at the top, then follow the trail, rubbing the excess off and spreading it out. Put the umber on some spots, but not the whole prop. I tend to cover about half. That's it, your done! |
 |
| You can contact me at heresjohnny@cfl.rr.com | |
